Mexico City | Los Loosers
Los Loosers literally translates to “The Losers.” The name is supposed to give hope to anyone that’s ever been isolated or pressured because of their differences. I like this story; it motivates others to overcome other’s expectations of you.
Los Loosers is a vegan, Mexican restaurant based in La Roma, Mexico City. Mariana is the owner, chef and manager. Every day she gets up early to go north of Mexico City to the wholesale food market to pick ingredients for a dish that day. Everything, down to the garnishes, is hand selected and meticulously filtered. Quality is the end game here.
Mariana has been vegan for many years. With that has come the responsibility of explaining to restaurants and street vendors that she can’t eat meat, eggs or dairy products. Mexico City is the city of tacos. And if you’ve spent any bit of time here, you can tell that a vegan diet isn’t really in their vernacular. Sidewalks are lined with mom and pop street vendors fanning greasy meats and marinades. Beef, chicken, and pork three ways are the main food groups with a little room for salsa and cheese.
Mariana told us this story of what motivated her to start Los Loosers after a tasting at her restaurant. Every time she went out with her friends, it was difficult to explain to street vendors that all she was capable of was the tortilla, beans, avocado and salsas. While it didn’t bother her as much, it’s a burden on carnivores to be considerate of the meatless. One night at a party, in front of all of her friends, someone called Mariana out. Why does she have to be so difficult? Why can’t she eat like everyone else rather than making problems for the people around her? She’s such a loser.
Not one of her friends jumped to her defense. She was humiliated and isolated for her veganism. In the 21st century, a generation that celebrates health and differences, stories like this remind me of how we are still learning basic tolerances. What it also shows is the capacity humans have to drive change. She cited this moment as inspiration and motivation to start Los Loosers; which literally translates to “the losers.” She started the business herself with only the support of her family and her savings. It’s also worth noting the stark gender inequalities that her business abuts. Mexican Machoism is still widely observed and the traditional role of women as head of the household is commonly expected. Starting a business in the face of these obstacles only drives respect for her. Today, it’s a thriving small business that takes many orders over Facebook messenger and Instagram messages. Food is delivered solely by bicycle to reduce the carbon footprint. Mariana is constantly and justifiably swamped with work. Her food is amazing.
Years later, she ran into the friend that called her out for being a loser. They chatted in a local super market. Naturally, he was impressed to learn of the business Mariana started and of it’s success. Turns out, he was unemployed and needed a job, offering to help Mariana if there was anything she needed. She laughed. Funny how some things come full circle like that.
There was a private tasting organized by the owner and one of my fellow travelers. Before you go inside, you had to present a gift for the communal gift exchange and have your energy blessed. Blessings happened one at a time, so while the dinner was supposed to start at 8:30, the first dish didn’t find me until 9:45. The dinner lasted until 1:00 AM; filled with 6 courses ranging from fried avocado leaves, to one of the best mole dishes I’ve had and concluding with a coconut milk rice dish. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves and hopefully it will be more of a motivator to visit her space.
One thing I’ll end on: if she had the capacity to employ a full kitchen staff and have all the bells and whistles, this could be one of the best restaurants in the world. It wouldn’t surprise me if she was able to join a restaurant group to get that kind of support and klout. I hope that the next time I’ve gone back, her business has grown and flourished to the potential that mirrors the spirit which it was founded.